Did you know you can use heat transfer vinyl instead of fabric for embroidery applique? A lot of people don't realize this is a thing and once they try it are completely hooked!
This technique uses a ripaway (also called tear away) applique method that gives you a beautiful finished satin stitch edge - and it is way more beginner friendly than cutting fabric.
I'm going to walk you through the whole process from start to finish, including what all those stitch types mean why you don't need to contour cut your HTV at all!
For the design, you'll want an embroidery applique file - not just any embroidery design. Applique designs have specific stitch layers built in that make this whole technique work. I got the varsity number embroidery file from So Fontsy which has a huge selection of beginner-friendly applique designs.
The placement stitch runs first. This outlines exactly where you need to place your HTV or fabric. Think of it as a guide - it tells you precisely where to place your material hence the name "placement stitch."
The tack down stitch runs second. This stitches over your HTV to hold it in place before the final stitch.
The zigzag stitch runs third and gives the applique extra security before the satin stitch goes over it.
The satin stitch runs last and is the beautiful finished edge you see on the final design. This is what makes it look polished and professional.
I don't even remove the hoop from the machine, I just slide the HTV applique - adhesive side down - under the presser foot and position it over the placement stitch.
Now you can press the green button to run the tack down stitch while gently holding the HTV in place for the first few stitches until it's secured in place.
After the satin stitch is complete, remove the hoop from the embroidery machine and trim any threads.
I've done this technique with both the Brother SE600 and the Brother SE2000 embroidery machines.
What you need for HTV ripaway applique
Before you start, here's what you'll need:- Embroidery machine with an applique design loaded
- Heat transfer vinyl in your chosen colors - glitter HTV works beautifully for this.
- Iron on tear away fabric stabilizer
- Handheld mini press ie Cricut EasyPress (my preference since it fits inside the hoop) or iron
- Scissors for trimming threads and HTV
For the design, you'll want an embroidery applique file - not just any embroidery design. Applique designs have specific stitch layers built in that make this whole technique work. I got the varsity number embroidery file from So Fontsy which has a huge selection of beginner-friendly applique designs.
Understanding the stitch layers
This is the part that confuses most beginners, so let me break it down. Embroidery applique designs have four key stitch types that run in order: |
| stitch outline is for visual demonstration purposes only |
The zigzag stitch runs third and gives the applique extra security before the satin stitch goes over it.
The zig zag stitch and satin stitch are sometimes combined - as they are in the Varsity Jersey applique number I'm using.
Step by step - HTV ripaway applique
Start by hooping your fabric with stabilizer on the back.
Load your applique design on the embroidery machine and let run the placement stitch first.
The Brother SE2000 will pause in between stitches if they're assigned to different color threads which is exactly what you want even if you're not changing thread colors.
Don't press the green button right away to run the tackdown stitch. Instead, remove the carrier sheet from your heat transfer vinyl.
After the tackdown stitch you have two options:
- You can remove the hoop (keeping the fabric hooped) and rip away the excess HTV from around the tackdown stitch (ideal if you have multiple colors of HTV so the excess doesn't get accidentally tacked down)
- Skip the ripaway at this step and immediately run the satin stitch
I have done it both ways and for beginners, I think it's easier to wait to do the ripaway step until after the satin stitch. I would only recommend this, however, when using a single color HTV.
Starting at one corner tear away the HTV. It should cleanly tear around the stitches.
Flip the whole thing over and remove the iron-on stabilizer as well.
You can now un-hoop the fabric and use an iron or hand held heat press to activate the adhesive on the back of the HTV so it gets adhered to the fabric.
Just be sure you cover the HTV with the original carrier sheet when applying heat.
My best tips for beginners
Start simple. Use just one or two colors of HTV so you're not overwhelmed by multiple rounds of the ripaway process.Use a single color thread - like white - for everything on your first project so you don't have to rethread the machine between stitch layers.
Get a hand-held heat press like a Cricut Easypress mini or the xTool handheld press. It's smaller than an iron and will easily fit inside the hoop to press your HTV.
Finally, practice on scrap fabric first. I would not recommend trying this technique for the first time on a sweatshirt - that's an expensive practice shirt!
Shop embroidery machine supplies
Brother SE600 embroidery machineWant more embroidery tutorials?
If you've upgraded to the Brother SE2000, check out my complete Brother SE2000 beginner's guide for everything you need to get set up and started.Have you tried HTV applique with your embroidery machine? Drop your questions in the comments!
Note: This post may contain affiliate links. By clicking on them and purchasing products through my links, I receive a small commission. That's what helps fund Silhouette School so I can keep buying new Silhouette-related products to show you how to get the most out of your machine!
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